Information about Isaac Gandy

Every once in awhile I get an email from someone who checks out the ProtectSnakeValley.org website.  I'm so thankful that someone actually reads it! This was a very interesting email.

The email was from Eric Gandy, a relative of Isaac Gandy, for whom Gandy, Utah is named. Eric has done quite a bit of research on Isaac, who was the brother of his great great grandfather. You can find more on his website: http://www.gandy.st

R.I.P. 2012

These people have left Snake Valley, but their memories live on.

Nyles O'Dean Anderson, of EskDale

Sophie Jane Hesselgesser Littledike Byers, previously from Baker

Nancy Josephine Gatewood Eldridge, taught in Baker and Garrison

Jimmie Layland, previously from Callao

Leah Lorraine Lewis Lee Layland, of Callao

Juanita Miller, previously from Baker

Dorothy Stark, previously from the area

Mark Tripp, previously from Callao

Emma Irene Henriod Workman, previously from Pleasant Valley

If there is anyone else to add to the list, please leave a comment.

Click here to see the 2011 list.

Great Basin Paleoenvironmental Database

Snake Valley is in the Great Basin, a huge geographic area where water doesn't drain out to the seas. As a result, it was one of the last places in the U.S. to be explored. Due to its remoteness and lack of water, it also has been an area of much lower population concentration than many other areas in the U.S. This has resulted in a paucity of information about the Great Basin. Fortunately, over the years, a number of researchers have studied the Great Basin, including what it used to look like. What they've found has been fascinating--huge lakes, very different wildlife than today (imagine relatives of camels, saber-toothed tigers, and more), and a variety of ethnic groups that used the lands in various ways.

Desert Research Institute just announced a new tool where you can look for all that information in one place: the Great Basin Paleoenvironmental Database. From their website you can download a kml file to use on Google Earth to see where different studies were done. They also have an Excel spreadsheet listing the different studies focusing on the paleoenvironment of the Great Basin, plus additional information about the project.

Beautiful October and a Cool Link

This has been a wonderful October in Snake Valley, with lots of warm weather. Although many of the high elevation leaves had their colors shortened by an early October snowstorm, the lower elevations turned brilliant and stayed that way a long time

One of the things I learned in October is about the Utah Digital Newspapers Library. You can search through newspapers for over a century. I typed in "Snake Valley", clicked Exact Phrase, clicked Go, and found several interesting entries. I will try posting some in the future, as they give a very interesting view of our valley.

150th Anniversary of the Pony Express

Last weekend Don and Beth Anderson hosted a most excellent party up in Callao to celebrate the 150th Anniversary of the Pony Express. The Pony Express operated from 19 months 1860 to 1861 to deliver the U.S. mail from Missouri to California by way of horseback across the rough frontier country before railroads or telegraphs crossed it.

They own the Willow Springs Pony Express Station, the last surviving station. The stone Pony Express monument stands at the entrance to their ranch.

Several local riders helped bring the mail to the station, carrying it in a leather mochila. A caravan of people and horses followed to watch the mail retracing its historic hoofbeats. Despite some cool and rainy weather, the turnout was great, and many people planned to spend the night at Callao, more than doubling its population.

A variety of activities took place, including an auto show, fireworks, hamburger dinners, singing, dancing, and meeting new people. It was a great celebration.

The next morning dawned cool and cloudy, perfect for taking the mail even further east. The Pony Express trail through Snake Valley, and all the people who keep those memories alive, are one more thing I love about the area.

THE BEST IDEA I EVER HAD!

By Denys Koyle: 

In about 2002, I was thinking about hosting an appreciation dinner for the sheepherders out here on the West Desert who had gotten me through some really tough winters when they were the only customers I could count on. By 2004, I got organized enough to announce I wanted to host what I jokingly called the Old Sheepherders’ Party (because there are no young sheepherders). The party was scheduled for January for a couple of reasons. First, that is when the herds are on the desert and secondly, because we have hardly any business in the winter months and it would give us something to do. Steve Fitzgerald was one of the first that I approached about the idea. He said if I had the party that he would donate the lamb. Every year since then one of the owners has donated a lamb for the party including Brian Okelberry, Kim Aagard, Christine Lee, Baker Ranches, and Lois Sheets. Next year’s lamb will be donated by Terry Mahoney and Colleen Collers.
News of a party spread fast from one sheep camp to the next on the desert. Besides word of mouth, Bruce Nielson of Producers’ Livestock Auction provided the phone numbers for some of the owners that had herds out here over the years. Most of these were people who even pre-dated me and I have lived here 34 years. Newell Johnson was one of these people. I gave him a call and we had such a nice visit and he said he would be here. Bruce had told me that Newell was in his nineties and I was a little concerned that he might not remember the call. A couple of hours later I called his daughter, Christine Lee (whom I had never met either) and told her I had talked to Newell. She reported that he had already called her with the news and that they WERE coming to the desert for the party.
That first year I had no idea how many people to expect but I thought fifty or so would come. Over ninety people showed up! Besides Newell and the Lees, other attendees included some real old timers-- Morris Cook, Van Warnick, Vernon Fairchild, Jack Ingram, Wayne Jones, Morgan Larsen, Eldon Anderson and the Pharris Nielson girls--Ellen and Lois. The place was crowded but everyone had a great time visiting and telling stories and I proved to the crowd that I DO know how to cook lamb.

Before the evening was over, several people came up to me and said, “You’re going to do this again next year, aren’t you?” And that’s how it became a tradition. One of Morris’ sons had the presence of mind to grab a notebook and circulated it to get names and addresses of the attendees which became the beginnings of my mailing list which now had over 250 names.

By 2005, I had gotten lots of requests from people who hadn’t come the first year but wanted to come this time. I asked Dave Tilford from Ely whose ties are strong in Snake Valley to come and videotape the party. Besides visiting and dining, I added an open mike program where anybody could get up and tell a story or two. Newell yodeled and sang a couple of songs. And that became the standard format for Friday night. By this time, about 150 people were attending the party which was all the capacity we had.

In 2006, Dave Tilford began recording oral histories of the old timers. We now have a really good collection of tapes of the sheep industry in the Great Basin. The Great Basin National Heritage Area became a co-sponsor of the events and has written grants for the tapings and entertainment. We recorded Newell that year. It was the last time he yodeled. He passed away that March. At the end of that party, Morgan Larsen suggested that we revive the tradition of a Sheepherder’s Ball.

Attendance was a little smaller in 2006 because the Utah Woolgrowers’ had rescheduled their convention for the same weekend. Both Paul Freshnect, National President, and Jamie Gilmore, Utah President both called me before the party and apologized and said they would never do that again. At the end of the program on Friday night, I received the best compliment that I have ever received. Newell got up and said it was the first time in sixty years that he had missed a Utah Woolgrowers’ Convention but he had his priorities straight and he was in the right place.
To allow more people to participate, in 2007 I expanded the party to a two-day event so that those who couldn’t come on Friday could come on Saturday and vice versa. Dave Okelberry offered to cook sourdough pancakes on Saturday morning and added a Basque family style dinner followed by the Sheepherders Ball. And people appreciated the second day to have more time to visit and enjoy themselves. Hank Vogler from the Needs More Sheep Co. in North Spring Valley, Nevada emceed the Friday open mike party and had us shaking our heads at his hilarious but true stories. Besides noting the passing of Newell, Kim Aagard paid tribute to his dad, Welby, who had passed away just a couple of weeks before the party. After the Basque dinner, Buster Dufferena from Winnemucca, Nevada told me I could come cook in his camp anytime.

In 2008, we kept with the two day schedule and had a wonderful time. However,
the Sheepherder’s Party taught us that we could do successful special events and make a buck too. But the main building at the Border was just too small. Beginning right after the party in January, we commenced remodeling our building and added 3000 square feet which doubled our floor space. We have a new dining room and a party room with a stage for dances. The doors can open so we can use the dining room and party area for the big parties. We moved into this space in August, 2008 and everything was in place for A really BIG party.

The 2009 Old Sheepherders’ Party was the best ever. Hank Vogler emceed Joe Freshnect, Edna Forsgren and Jack Madson among others, told stories that reflected
the importance of sheep ranching in their lives and made me proud that in our small way we are preserving that heritage. Reita Berger, who had taken over the Terry Motel and Store and ran the Outlaw Bar and Café, told some of her experiences with sheepherders. Randy Livingston jumped up at one point and shouted, “It’s true. I was there!”

On Saturday afternoon, Sourdough Slim was in concert at the Border Inn and received the first ever standing ovation at the Border. He sang, yodeled, played his accordian and guitar. Everyone there from two year old Matthew Baker to ninety-five year old John Sims laughed and sang along and wished for the good old days.
The Seventh Annual Old Sheepherders’ Party will be held on the third weekend in January, the 15th and 16th, 2010. A newsletter will go out in November with information on the Party. If you would like to be added to the mailing list, please call the Border Inn
At 775-234-7300 and ask for Denys Koyle. It IS the best idea I ever had!

2009 Young Author's Fair

This past week, the Garrison/Baker schools held their Young Author's Fair. Each year the students write books, an invited speaker comes and does a presentation, and the students do some activities related to the presentation. 

Garrison School houses grades kindergarten through second with one teacher, and Baker School has third though sixth grades with one teacher.

Mrs. Phillips, teacher at the Garrison school, began the program outlining the afternoon's activities.

Then Denys Koyle, board member of the Great Basin National Heritage Partnership, got up and introduced the featured speaker.

The speaker was Dr. Leo Lyman, co-author of  A History of Millard County. He talked about some of the many books he has written, and then proceeded to ask the students if they could help him decide which of the many stories he knew about Snake Valley he should put in an upcoming book. 

He spoke about a range of stories from shootings to the establishment of a national park to people freezing to death to early pioneers. The students had fun at the end telling him which story they liked best.

Then it was time for the students to do a self-portrait using mirrors and write a story about some event that happened in their family histories.

Meanwhile their stories were on tables for others to read and leave comments. 

It was a fun activity and got everyone excited about writing.

Crystal Ball Cave

Although Snake Valley became internationally known for Lehman Cave, many other caves are also found in the area. One worth visiting is Crystal Ball Cave, so named because the interior is filled with calcite crystals called nailhead spar. 

The trip starts at the end of the driveway framed by hundred-year old Lombardy poplars. Jerald and Marlene Bates lead tours through Crystal Ball Cave, so if you want to go you need to call in advance (435-693-3145). The cave is on BLM land, but they have the mining rights so manage the cave.

After meeting Jerald, you follow him to the parking area for the cave and immediately realize he has a good sense of humor. He's lived out at Gandy for his entire life, and it was an uncle that found the cave in 1956. The uncle dragged young Jerald with him to help explore it. Jerald wasn't too enthusiastic due to previous unproductive trips, but this hole in the ground turned out to be different from the rest.

To reach the entrance of the cave requires a short hike. Jerald realizes when the group needs a break and points out plants and other things of interest.

At the cave entrance, he gives more background and tells everyone not to touch cave formations. Then it's time to go in. Jerald unlocks the door, and everyone walks into the dark cave.

A bunch of stalactites are near the entrance. There are no lights in the cave, so everyone needs to bring one.

I thought this weathered formation looked very interesting.

Patches of cave popcorn decorate some cave ceilings and walls.

Most of the cave formations are calcite, but some gypsum is also found in the cave.

Jerald was good at explaining the different types of formations in the cave, as well as the history of it.

This tall stalagmite was taller than everyone on the tour.

The trail goes next to this primitive ladder, leading up to an upper chamber. Jerald said he wouldn't go up it today.

The tour route is on the cave floor, next to more formations. Everywhere you look there's something interesting to see.

Although Crystal Ball Cave is only about 45 miles from Lehman Cave, it looks totally different. After the cave was dissolved away by carbonic acid, the cave filled several times with water supersaturated with calcium carbonate. The calcium carbonate precipitated out in a crystalline form, called nailhead spar. These crystals cover most of the surfaces in Crystal Ball Cave (hence the name of the cave). Walking into the cave is sort of like walking into a huge geode.

Over time, many of the crystals have been covered with sand and dirt, so they're not shiny, but they are large.

Ceilings, walls, and floors all have the nailhead spar coating.

Sometimes it's more translucent and glows when you put a flashlight next to it.

Further into the cave are interesting formations called cave cones or raft cones. They are the remains of calcite rafts, thin layers of calcite on top of the water. When water dripped onto the calcite rafts, the rafts broke apart and formed into these mounds.

Besides the amazing cave, another appeal of the cave tour is Jerald's quick wit and funny jokes.

He enjoys showing people the cave.

Further into the cave the ceiling drops and requires some stoop-walking.

Then the cave opens up again and you see what looks like moonmilk decorating the cave ceiling. Moonmilk looks sort of like white cheese that has oozed out of the carbonate rock. It may form due to chemical or bacterial causes.

Near the exit is a very large rock that has some beautiful crystals exposed. There are a variety of colors.
A close up of the crystals reveals even more beauty.

Besides the geologic wonders, Crystal Ball Cave is a treasure trove of biologic wonders. A paleontological survey of the cave revealed bones from numerous animals. Some are no longer found at this low an elevation (like bighorn sheep), while others are now extinct. These animals lived in the cave vicinity tens of thousands of years ago, when the climate was much different. Roughly 15,000 years ago, the arm of a huge lake, Lake Bonneville, filled the bottom of the valley, and trees extended down near the lake margins. In this landscape, large-headed llamas, camels, small horses, helmeted muskox, American sabercat, and more roamed.

Crystal Ball Cave is the first location that a new, extinct species of skunk (Brachyprotoma brevimala) has been described.

The cave tour exits from a different place than the entrance, and then it's time to walk back to the vehicles, looking out at the vastly different valley than was there not all that long ago. It would be interesting to come back in 15,000 years and see what it looks like then.

How Wheeler Peak got its Name

From Kathy Rountree:

Wheeler Peak, or Mt. Wheeler if you prefer, hasn't always been called that. The first name of the mountain was Too-bur-rit. Recorded by Col. J.H. Simpson in 1858, he could not determine what this Indian name meant.

In 1855 Lt Colonel Steptoe called it Jefferson Davis Peak; Davis was at that time the Secretary of War of the United States and later the President of the Confederacy.

Members of The White Mountain Mission climbed the peak in 1855 and named it Williams Peak for the first white man to the top. There is a great description of the bristlecone pines in their journal. ..."looking for all the world like a canyon full of elk."

In 1859 Col. Simpson named it Union Peak "for its double yet connected form".

In 1869 Lt. Geo. M Wheeler and group of people from his survey climbed it from the west and called it Wheeler Peak.

The name must have been quite a controversy in the 1860's onward as the Civil War raged and sympathies for both North and South were present amongst the local population. Calling it Union Peak or Jeff Davis may have stirred up trouble. Boone Tilford who had mining claims south of Osceola at a place called Hogum, hailed from the south and in his diaries referred only to Jeff Davis Peak. Other accounts of the time refer to it as Union Peak.

Today, topographical maps show that both the names Wheeler and Jeff Davis are used: Wheeler Peak is the western one, at 13,063 feet, while Jeff Davis Peak is the eastern peak, at 12,771 feet. They are the second and third highest peaks in Nevada. From the town of Baker, Jeff Davis is the big mountain seen, blocking the view of Wheeler.

Interestingly this is not the only peak named for Wheeler. To the northeast of Taos, NM stands another Wheeler. It is near the same height and as you come to Taos from the west it looks much like Snake Valley.

Lights of Progress

Some modern amenities have been slow coming to the desert. When Kathy and I moved to the West Desert, in 1972, we lived in Pleasant Valley. Utility-generated electricity had been introduced a few years prior but we had no telephone service. Mail was delivered twice a week. TV reception was hopeless and satellite TV was science fiction. We were about 90 miles from the nearest store.

In 1980, we moved onto an old homestead in Partoun. We still did not have telephone service, TV reception (via Radio Shack's best antenna atop a high pole) was barely recognizable, and the main road in front of our house had a high clay content -- on rainy days we had to push vehicles for up to a half mile on a couple stretches of road. While we were building our adobe home, we had a privy in the corner of a windbreak. Stores were still about 90 miles away and we had almost 50 miles of gravel road in any of three directions before we hit paved roads.

We now have telephone service, mail delivery three days a week, satellite TV, and DSL internet. All roads in Partoun are graveled and well maintained. These conveniences have made desert living much more comfortable. But throughout most of my life on the desert, we lacked one very critical service.

Partoun had no fire department.

A fatal house fire in January 1997, however, stirred Earl Lewis, father of four, to spearhead efforts to establish a fire department in Partoun. Other key people throughout north Snake Valley joined the effort, notably Keith Allred and Don Anderson. Now we are very fortunate to have fire departments in Partoun, Granite Ranch, and Callao. In future posts on this blog we plan to cover the history and personnel of these fire departments in more detail. It is a story of grit, determination, and perseverance. This summer, work was completed on a two-bay fire department building with training room and office -- its yard light has become the main Partoun nighttime landmark.

Another fire-department light also has become a Partoun fixture. Each year the local fire chief, Earl Lewis, takes one of the fire trucks for a spin around the area. With emergency lights flashing, he stops at each home and delivers goodies.

This year each family received a fire extinguisher, a carbon monoxide alarm, three smoke alarms, and some informative pamphlets on fire prevention. This short, colorful journey with its small, but useful, tokens is an annual reminder not only to keep our homes safe but that our neighbors have gone far out of their ways to be profoundly helpful.

The fire truck lights and the bright yard light of the new fire department building are testaments to the kind of dedicated, unselfish neighbors living in Partoun. They exemplify the can-do attitude that has been a hallmark of Snake Valley residents for many decades past and will continue into the future.

A few years ago I attended a week-long workshop and shared a motel room with a fellow from Orderville, Utah. He told me as soon as the town he lives in installs more than one stoplight he moves to a smaller town. Too much progress. I suspect it will be a long time before Partoun or any other Snake Valley town gets even one stoplight. But now we have fire department lights -- that represents real progress.

-ken

(Photos: April Lewis, Ken Hill, April Lewis)

Memories of Baker Softball

What could be better than a late Sunday afternoon of softball played on a dirt field surrounded by the expanse of a beautiful high desert valley? Not much.

That was Baker softball in the 1980’s

Bill Ilchik and Jack Dalton

We didn’t start out surrounded by immense views. We started playing at the old Baker School yard. It was the only backstop in town. Players would come from all around the valley along with spectators. It was a tight space for the game and the power hitters. The school building, teacher’s house and the trees were all really close. The game was delayed a lot as we searched for the ball hit into the “rough”. I don’t remember exactly, but I bet a few windows were broken. It was fun.

Looking for a new field became a priority. Through the good graces of Dean Baker and the Baker Ranch we soon were fixing a new field south of the Baker Ranch apartments. It turned out to be one of the few places around Baker that wasn’t rocky. Nice sandy soil made a great sliding surface. Joe Griggs found some chain link for the backstop. He and Dean got the county to cover the liability, Dave Moore came up with some large and long iron pipes, Dennis Schlabtz augured the holes and boomed the pipes into place and Baker Ranch helped clear the ground. Bill Rountree, Bill Ilchik, Marty Reed from the Fish Hatchery and Russ Groves were all a part of the project and soon we had a great backstop, a swing-set, volley ball area and outhouse. A couple of picnic tables and we were set. (And now “Dear Reader”, here is where I need your memories. Who else was there and what other details can you remember?)

L to R Randy Wilson, Diane Bullock, Susannah Barnes. Julie Gregson, Dave Baker,???, Kristi Kaiser, Jerry Pelk, Val Taylor, ??? Dean Baker & Pete Kaiser

Michelle ?, & Tom Baker on the balance beam

We brought the old home plate and bases, which were starting to fall apart. After a game or two, I made covers for the bases out of heavy denim with machine embroidery that spelled “Gucci”, “Yves St. Laurent” and “Channel” and Voila we had “designer bags” for our bases. Next season we took up a collection and purchased a new set of really good bases. We had a great ball field.

Some players didn’t have gloves so when the side was out and the other team took the field, gloves were handed off to the players without gloves. Those with bats brought them and someone always brought softballs. At one time we even had orange and white team shirts and hats donated by Laura Dean and Kathy Rountree. Thus equipped we played until it was too dark to see the ball.

Kathy Kaiser-Rountree

Baker Softball rules were different.
Rule #1 was everyone got to play. To this end we “chose up sides” rather than having teams. Every one was picked right down to the smallest kid who wanted to play. Sometime we had 25 people per team. The outfield was full! We had shortstops, middle stops, short short stops, well you get the picture. If you came late you just joined the side that was short a player. If not enough players came, we played work-up.
Rule #2 - Little kids got to bat until they hit the ball. Then you should have seen the gross ineptitude of the infield fumbling the ball, throwing it the wrong way, and generally messing up until the little player made it to first base.
Rule #3 - If you were too old, out of shape, or otherwise couldn’t run you could bat and use a “pinch runner”.
Rule #4 Follow the real rules.

Joe Gleason, a retired banker and Bob Hunter, retired auto mechanic both from southern Nevada were our main umpires. Bob had the best Major League umpire “you’rrrre OOUUUT!! move you've ever seen.

Pete Kaiser, “ump” Joe Gleason, Russ Groves, John Sheppard

Players came from all over the valley and even Ely. More organized games were played against other teams once in a while. The better players amongst us put together a regular team and played Garrison, a Stanford field camp team, the Park Service and others. Once the team caravaned up to Ibapah to play, stopping at Blue Mass for a picnic. This outing was organized by Bill Ilchik and is remember by the players as one of the great times. Baker won.

A women’s softball team from Utah, going home from a tournament stopped at the Outlaw for burgers and wound up playing. They stomped us. We only got one hit.

As the seasons went on water fights broke out more and more. What better way to end a game on a hot summer night than with a rousing dowsing. It all culminated in the most spectacular water fight Baker had ever seen. Without saying much, word got around and people came prepared with all manner of water containers, Russ Grove built a water balloon catapult in the back of his truck. As the game wound down, tentatively a few cups of water were thrown, the squirt guns came out, Russ started lobbing water balloons, But wait what’s that? OMG here comes the Ranch water tanker truck equipped with a pump and fire hose. A water balloon catapult was no match for that. The Baker boys trumped us all. There’s an enduring snapshot memory of Kristy Ferguson holding Willis by an ankle, dunking him in a cooler, up down, up down with him yelling Maaaa!. And needless to say there was not a dry player in the house.

There were some injuries, sprains, bruises and that sort of thing. Jody Dalton loved to pitch. Once she was hit in the forehead by a line drive. The ball caromed straight up in the air, the ever alert Bill Rountree rushed to her aid from first base, on the way he caught the ball, flipped it to third base for a double play and was still the first one at the fallen player’s side. Joe Griggs went nuts.

People came just to watch and enjoy the wonderful evenings at the ball field. So many fabulous sunsets, the sounds of meadow larks and owls, the crack of the bat, good natured jeering and taunting, and afterwards a lot of players having a hamburger or a beer down at the Outlaw and laughing about the great hits, missed catches and other silly things that happened in the game.

It was about community.

PS I hope that you will add your memories of the softball games in the comments section below.
It might be fun to start a roster of the people who played and loved Baker Softball.



Bill Rountree, Rodney Wright, ? , Russ Groves